WHEN Sydney Smith of London arrived at the parish of Foston-le-Clay, he found a bare, cold church and no accommodation.

Not surprising, as there had been no resident rector there for more than 100 years. However, Sydney was not a man to shirk hardship. He and his family took a house at Heslington and lived there for four years while Sydney took charge of building a new rectory at Foston.

He set himself up as architect and head-builder and when the house was finished he described it as the ugliest house ever built but by far the most comfortable. He then decided that as it was a new house it should have new furniture. He bought a quantity of wood then hired a carpenter to make the furniture to his own designs.

Sydney Smith was a remarkable orator but when he spoke his mind it did not make him many friends. At a meeting with the Archdeaconry of Cleveland at the Three Tuns Inn, Thirsk, he said: “The best thing we could have done is not to have met at all, and the next best thing we can do, now we are met, is to do nothing! The third choice is to take up my petition! The fourth, last, and worst is to adopt your own!”

He did, however, make friends with Lord and Lady Carlisle of Castle Howard when their coach became stuck in the mud outside his house. They were visiting him for the first time having been described to them by friends as a famous London wit. They soon became great friends. He visited the Carlisles most weeks and said that Castle Howard was where he found congenial political society.

He remained at Foston for 20 years, moving to Bristol in 1828. He returned to London three years later and died there in 1845 aged 73.

Your route

Gazette & Herald: Foston cycle ride small Leave Welburn village away from the A64 and at the crossroads go left. Climb a little, then pass the magnificent monument built in memory of the 7th Earl of Carlisle in front of you.

The road twists and turns as it descends now and eventually reaches a crossroad. Turn right here, signed to Foston and Thornton-le-Clay. Not far to Foston, and the magnificent church of Sydney Smith greets you as you enter the village. Pass through the village and soon you reach Thornton-le-Clay. At the sharp left bend go right onto a narrow road signed to Sheriff Hutton and Bulmer.

Cycle past an old dilapidated windmill to a T-junction and turn left signed to Flaxton and York.

Flat views all round and on a clear day you should be able to see York Minster. At the crossroads go straight across onto a narrow road. The road might be straight but there are sharp corners to negotiate. Eventually you reach a T-junction; go right here to soon reach Sheriff Hutton and its grand castle ruin.

Cycle through the village, perhaps stopping at the Highwayman for some refreshment. At the roundabout go straight ahead towards Terrington. Enjoy the good views all round across the fields to the Howardian Hills in the distance. Cross the valley floor then climb up to a T- junction. Turn right here and it is not long before you can nip in to the Yorkshire Lavender café for a cup of tea before entering Terrington village. More refreshment is available in the village at either the Bay Horse Inn or the nearby tea rooms.

Cycle through the village, then keep straight ahead following signs for Ganthorpe and York. The road undulates for some time then reaches another T-junction. Go left now signed to Welburn and York and soon you reach a crossroads. Go straight ahead here to return to Welburn and perhaps more refreshment in the Crown and Cushion.

The facts

Distance: 20miles/32km.

Terrain: Mainly flat country roads.

Best map: OS Explorer 300.

Start/grid ref: Welburn, park with respect.

Grid ref: 720680.

Refreshments: several village pubs and a cafe on route, see route text.

Guide book: Exploring Ryedale, Moor & Wold by Bicycle by J. Brian Beadle, published by Trailblazer at £2.50, contains similar routes. Available from the Ryedale Rambler at Pickering, book shops, Pickering railway station and tourist information centres.

View a printable map of the cycle ride>>