MUCH attention has been on Spain this past week or so, and not necessarily for the right reasons with such political unrest.

It does, however, provide us with a tenuous link with which to introduce a wine column.

You see, we too are focussing attentions on Spain this week, albeit a bit inland from the troubled Catalonia region, to the famous Rioja area in the northern central part of the country.

There are no major calls for political independence here but it is something of an autonomous wine region, as one of only two DOCs (Spain has many DOs - Denominaciones de Origen or Wine Appellations - but only two “qualified” DOs, or DOCs - Denominación de Origen Calificada – which are by definition of a higher standard).

And they are traditionally a bit precious over their drink here too. For example, in 1635, the mayor of a town called Logrono made it illegal for carts to travel streets that ran alongside wine cellars because of fears the vibrations would disturb the wine below. Now that is political unrest Rioja-style.

They’ve had wine here since before Roman times, with a specific “Rioja” made by monks documented as far back as 873. The region is famed for its reds, a distinct characteristic of which is the effect of oak ageing - first introduced here in the 1700s. Oak and vanilla flavours have duly become a virtual trademark.

However, there are differences from one bottle to the next, and not only due to the wine's age, from young Rioja through Crianza and Reserva to Gran Reserva.

There are also sub-divisions of the region – Alta (higher up mountains), Alavesa (where the soil means vines have to be further apart to get nutrients) and Baja (warmer and drier).

Then there's the blend - the black Tempranillo is the main grape, giving full flavour, but is usually mixed with a bit of Garnacha, Mazuelo and/or Graciano for body and aroma.

So anyway. Sainsbury’s have a few currently on discount offer until Tuesday, and we tried two of different price levels.

The Beronia Rioja Gran Reserva is down from £18 to £16.

The Gran Reserva label means it is aged at least five years, with a minimum of two in oak, thereby creating a better, deeper wine. These are typically made in only outstanding rated vintages too.

This 2009 Beronia, made from Tempranillo (92%), Mazuelo (4%) and Graciano (4%), is aged for 26 months in new French oak barrels.

For supermarket wine, this is very good. A welcoming medium-intensity wine with personality - aromas of plums and figs, with the oak flavours mixing well with sweet spices and clove, as well as the noticeable ripe fruit. The tannins are well integrated too. Additional smokiness comes with decanting, making this 14 per cent tipple even better. Enjoy with red meat and cheese.

Cheaper Rioja lower down the shelves can be harsh, too heavy on the eyes.

The Sainsbury’s branded Taste The Difference Cepa Alegro Rioja Reserva, however, is a decent bargain, at £7.50 down from £8.50.

Reserva Riojas are aged at least three years, with at least one in barrel.

This 2010 full-to-medium-bodied tipple, with Graciano mixed in with the Tempranillo, comes in at 13 per cent and, with a pleasing supple palate. Smooth and mellow, it has plenty of black fruit flavours with a touch of vanilla and some lovely wood, smoke and even tea. Enjoy, naturally, with tapas.