Chef Andrew Pern suggests a brace of recipes perfect for the game season

The partridge and Penny Bun mushrooms are a beautiful combination. This fungus has a similar texture to the partridge and is quite "meaty" in a way, but you could substitute chestnut mushrooms or even button mushrooms. The vibrant spinach gives the "Popeye" feel-good factor and the crisp cheese wafer is ideal for dunking into the creamy risotto.

While early season grouse are perfect traditionally roasted, old grouse can have a tendency to be a little tough, so my second recipe is one to keep for later in the season.

The Salmis is a classic casserole dish, using older birds to create a wonderful, deep, Burgundy-rich stew. The stump, with its less than glamorous name, which is just an old Yorkshire term for mashed carrot and swede – just add a good pinch of cracked black pepper and you are away.

Happy cooking and cheers.

Risotto of Local Shot Rievaulx Partridge with Penny Bun Mushrooms, Wilted Matador Garden Spinach, Doddington’s Cheese and Thyme Wafer (serves four)

Ingredients

2 breasts of partridge, skin off,

1cm dice Rapeseed oil for frying

1 shallot peeled and finely chopped

300g Arborio risotto rice

600ml good game stock

A splash of Fino sherry

50g Penny Bun mushrooms, cleaned and sliced

100g Doddington’s cheese, grated

100g Matador spinach, roughly chopped

50ml whipping cream

50g unsalted butter

Seasoning

For the wafers

100g Doddington’s cheese, grated

A pinch of thyme, chopped

To serve:

5ml white truffle oil

Method

In a heavy-bottomed pan, shallow-fry the diced partridge in a little oil to lightly colour for only two to three minutes, add the shallot and sweat without colouring.

Add the rice, stir briefly again, add 500ml game stock, stirring all the time, so it doesn’t stick until most of the stock has evaporated and the rice is nearly cooked for approximately 10 to 12 minutes.

Add a splash of sherry, the Penny Bun mushrooms, and half of the cheese, check the consistency and seasoning. The rice should be "al dente" (firm to the bite), stir in the spinach, cream and butter. Check temperature and seasoning. Serve immediately.

For the wafers, take the remaining half of the cheese and mix with the chopped thyme. Place four 8cm pastry rings onto a baking sheet covered with greaseproof paper. Sprinkle the mix into the centre of the rings, then bake in a medium to hot oven for three to four minutes, or grill until golden brown. Remove from the heat and allow to cool and crisp.

To serve, spoon the risotto into warm bowls, drizzle with a little white truffle oil and place a cheese and thyme wafer on the top.

"Salmis" of Grouse with Stump (serves four)

Ingredients

2 old grouse (oven ready)

50g smoked bacon cubes

6 shallots, finely diced

2 sticks of celery, washed and diced

2 carrots, finely diced

2 cloves of garlic, crushed 250ml red wine

1 spring of thyme

Seasoning 100ml game stock

5g cornflour, or as required

A little rapeseed oil for frying

Seasoning For the Stump:

6 carrots

1 medium swede

50g butter

Seasoning

Method

Preheat the oven to 150°C/Gas Mark 2. Cut the grouse in half long ways, so that you have four halves.

Heat a little oil in a large saucepan and fry off the breast meat, legs and smoked bacon until browned. Add the diced shallots, celery and carrots, and crushed garlic to the pan, followed by the wine and thyme, salt and pepper, bring to the boil, until reduced by half.

Then add the game stock and place into the preheated oven for two hours, or until the leg meat is soft and the sauce has thickened slightly (use cornflour, if required).

For the stump, dice the carrot and swede, and bring to the boil with a little water. Cook until very soft, then drain off the water and mash the carrot and swede, season with cracked black pepper and salt, and add the butter for richness.

To serve, place a leg and some nice chunks of breast in a bowl and cover with the rich red wine sauce and place a good spoonful of the Yorkshire stump next to the casserole.