THIS month I’ll be talking service. This column is about food, but it is all too true that even with the best food, slow or surly service can really ruin the experience.

I remember visiting Harry’s Bar in Florence where a good lunch was made brilliant by the charming team. That subtle interplay between them and me had been taken to a level that was akin to an art form. So natural, so warm and without being in the slightest bit forced. I had such a good time that when it came to tip time the usual 12.5 per cent seemed somehow redundant. At that moment I was willing to hand over my card, my wallet, sister, mother, whatever they wanted.

As more and more people eat out, the British public have got more discerning about service too, so it is more important than ever that Malton, a place that takes food seriously, must have seriously good service.

And it’s not just in a sit down restaurant. Whether it be cafe, butcher, baker, ice cream maker, service is all too important.

Take Groovy Moo Ice Cream, which has burst onto the Malton food scene with the most amazing gelato, but also the most wonderful service from Michelle Walker and her smiley team. You can’t get an ice cream there without a little fun, a little chat, a smile, a laugh, a bit of gossip. Her customer service should be an example to us all and congratulations to all the team on winning a recent Best New Business award.

I know from personal experience now how crucial good service is as I have started waiting on tables in Malton Brasserie. For me it’s where it all started as my first jobs were as an hotel butler and behind the counter in Sally Clarke’s Kensington deli.

I am certainly no expert but my take on what makes good service is to be warm and engaging, damn quick and let the customers feel special - every customer, every time. That’s what we’re trying at Malton Brasserie.

And it all comes down to training. At my own business, the Talbot Hotel, we have been quite proud that some of our team who trained at the hotel have now gone on to hold fantastic jobs at other establishments.

Head chef Craig Atchinson and sous chef Jake Jones both moved on to the Grand Hotel and Spa in York, where they are in more senior roles and we hear great reports of their progress. We want to give that opportunity to every chef, waiter and to every employee in my business or anywhere around town.

I have definitely felt the warming up and improving of service in the seven years I have been in town. The friendly welcome you receive in so many businesses across Malton is testament to the fact the people and businesses are ‘getting it’. Better at welcoming visitors whatever the business, whatever the size. Service is crucial guys, keep up the good work.

Malton Monthly Food Market returns on Saturday, November 14, with live cooking from Sue Nelson and several others.