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Country walk: Gisborough Priory to Staithes

During this country walk you will pass evidence of Cleveland’s mining history During this country walk you will pass evidence of Cleveland’s mining history

Over the next two months we will walk from Guisborough to Whitby, starting at a priory and ending at an abbey.

But what is the difference between a priory and an abbey? The difference lies chiefly in the magnitude of the houses and the right of precedence of abbots. The prior was usually known as one rank below the abbot.

Certain abbots were so important that they were called to parliament and even sat in the House of Lords. With that judgement in mind, I think it is right that we take a walk where, perhaps, the prior of Gisborough Priory could have walked to visit his superior at the mighty abbey on the cliff at Whitby.

Gisborough Priory was founded in 1119 by Robert de Brus. Robert was the first Lord of Annadale and he was given land in the north of England once belonging to the Saxon Siward. This included an ancient church which stands near Upleatham at the side of the road between Guisborough and Saltburn.

Once a larger structure, the building standing today is part of the nave of a Norman church. If you peep through the door, you will see a stone coffin which is said to contain the remains of Robert.

Gisborough Priory is now a ruin, but the site it is built on has some interesting history. It was a rich priory, heavily supported by local landowners.

But before the priory was built, the site supported a Saxon settlement and a Norman cemetery where many skeletons have been found, one of which was headless.

The first priory was probably built of wood in the early 12th century and several others were built as time went by. One in the 13th century was destroyed by fire and finally the stone priory ruins remaining today are what is left after the dissolution.

In the best years, the priory would have supported Augustinian monks with its kitchens, refectory, dormitory, chapter house and all the other trappings of a 14th century way of religious life.

If you would like to see the priory ruin in all its magnificence you are advised to go at the first full moon of the new year when the ghost of the black cowled monk will entertain you as he goes about his religious chores.

Your route for part one

I recommend you take the map OS Landranger 94 as some paths are unclear.

The first section of the walk uses part of the Cleveland Street, a medieval road. You will see the route waymarked as you walk along. Leave the priory, keeping it on the right and walk between it and the church.

Cross the graveyard to the right to join a paved way to a metal gate. Go right here onto a path which gives magnificent views to the right of the remains of the priory.

At the road, go left, then in a few yards, turn right along the public footpath at the entrance to Foxdale Farm. In a couple of hundred yards, turn left over a stile and keep to the fence on the right to a metal gate.

Keep straight ahead now, crossing several stiles and fields on an obvious path to the road. Go right here to walk on the roadside footpath and soon you reach the sign for Slapewath.

Cross the road to the houses, then in a few yards, head towards the Fox and Hounds pub. Take the narrow bridleway on the left of the Fox and Hounds and climb steadily upwards, passing through many gates and stiles. All should be waymarked.

At a junction of tracks, keep right over a stile into a field. At the next junction of tracks, where the main path goes right, you must keep almost straight ahead on a field side path keeping the hedge on your left.

Pass over three more stiles, then go diagonally left up the hill over another stile to a wide track leading to the road. Left now for 100 yards, then right at the bridleway sign. Soon the road bends right. Go straight ahead here between a pair of stone posts.

Follow the obvious path over several stiles keeping straight ahead at all times, except where the path has been re-routed, but it is obvious. Eventually you meet the road at a bridge. Turn right, then almost immediately left onto a wide track which soon narrows and takes you to North Skelton.

Turn right at the road, then after two bridges, turn right again over the cattle grid along a wide public footpath. At the brow, turn left over a stile at the yellow waymark.

Keep straight ahead to another stile, then to a stream and yet another stile. Cross the bridge, then over the fields to two more stiles past the old Lumpsey Mine. Cross the mineral railway line, then cross a disused railway track keeping straight ahead up the slope to reach a wooden stile.

Follow the hedge first round to the left, then to the right following the line of the electric poles. At the road, keep straight on over the stile, then across the field to another stile. Cross another road, then over a stile into the field. Keep the hedge on the right and eventually turn through it over a stile, now the hedge is on your left.

Continue straight ahead in line with the electricity poles, then drop down through a field exiting on a narrow path past the allotments into Carlin How. Cross the road at the pub and head for the main road and pedestrian crossing in front of you.

Cross the road and turn right, then immediately left, turning almost immediately right downhill along a wide track with a yellow waymark.

In 100 yards leave the wide track and keep straight ahead over the bridge. At the road turn left, cross the bridge, then turn right at the sign for the Tom Leonard Mining Museum.

Pass through the car park, then look out for a path between the museum and a terrace of houses and climb up the steps past both, soon turning right onto a footpath.

In a few yards, go left over a stile into a field. Climb straight up the bank side and continue over the hill, heading for the radio mast in front of you. Join a wide track and leave the field through a gate onto the farm road.

After crossing several stiles you arrive at the main road. Go left here and keep on the road to Hummersea without deviation. The road bears right through the houses and heads off towards the cliff path where you join the Cleveland Way.

Walking along the high cliff path is rewarding, but please take great care where the path veers close to the edge. Continue along following Cleveland Way signs using both cliff path and the odd piece of road through Boulby.

Join a small road bearing left to take you to Cowbar and the descent into Staithes where you can have refreshment sitting by the harbourside.


The facts

Distance – 14 miles (23km).

Time – Five hours.

Grading – Moderate.

Start/grid ref – Gisborough Priory, grid ref. 618161.

Finish – Staithes, grid ref: 782185.

Best map – OS Landranger 94.

Parking – Guisborough and Staithes.

Refreshments – Pubs at Slapewath, North Skelton, Carlin Howe and Staithes. Fish and chip shop and cafés along the way.

Part two of this route to Whitby Abbey will be published next month.

View a map of the Gisborough Priory to Staithes country walk>>

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