IN the mid-1800s, Saltburn was a simple fishing village nestling beneath the high cliffs of Cleveland.

Built around the Ship Inn, it was also a haven for smugglers who were ruled by the iron fist of the landlord of The Ship, John Andrew, the King of Smugglers.

This romantic situation would have continued for many more years but for one man, Henry Pease. Pease sat on the cliff above old Saltburn one day in 1859 and, looking north, he saw a vision of a town rise in front of him on the opposing cliff.

Pease was convinced it was his destiny to build the town and, being the son of the founder of the Stockton and Darlington Railway, funding was available. Pease immediately laid plans for building this unique town where he built the Zetland Hotel with its own railway platform.

A grand pier with a landing stage at the far end was built, stretching out into the North Sea for 1,400ft (424m) and has miraculously remained defiant to become the most northerly surviving pier in the country.

This accolade has not been achieved easily as the pier fought, and still fights, against the elements and human error. In 1874-75, the landing stage and pier were badly damaged in a storm. It was repaired and shortened, then in 1900 the raging sea damaged it again and four years later it was rammed by a German ship, leaving a massive hole through the pier.

More problems followed. It was closed and part-dismantled during the Second World War to prevent invasion, but was refurbished and reopened in 1952.

Disaster struck again when this jinxed pier caught fire just days later. Never-ending disasters continued. Storms wrecked it again in 1953-54, 1961, 1971, 1973 and 1974, and, due to a lack of funds, the pier was scheduled for demolition.

But the pier survived after a public inquiry and was shortened to 680ft (206mtrs), restored and re-opened in 1978.

More recently the pier, now Grade II listed, had work done to stabilise the foundations, replace some of the steelwork and to provide a new walkway.

Saltburn Pier has been saved once again, this time with the use of modern technology. Long may this magnificent northern pier survive and give pleasure to us all, unless the turbulent sea claims it back again.


Your route

Leave the car park and join the main road. Cross at the crossing then go right towards the Ship Inn. Pass the inn then take the path up the cliff at the rear of the Ship Inn car park signed Cleveland Way.

Climb up the stepped path to the top of the cliff, then take the cliff path. In a few paces turn right through a small gate towards the white cottages. Pass the cottages, bearing left, then keep left onto a wide farm road. When the wide road goes right keep straight ahead by the side of a large metal gate to continue along a wide track towards the farms.

Keep straight ahead at the yellow waymark and past a farm and continue along to another house at a crossroad of tracks. Keep straight ahead here signed to Warsett Hill.

Soon you reach the mineral railway line. Cross here as directed over two stiles into a field. Keep straight ahead across the middle of the field to another stile in the fence opposite. You are now circumnavigating Warsett hill.

As this is open access land you can climb the hill if you want then return here to continue the walk.

Cross another field to another stile in the opposite hedge. There are two stiles here, use the one on the left. Head for the stile in the corner of the next field on the left. The path is indistinct here but keep going downhill to the corner. Head towards, then past, the Guibal Fan House now, ignoring the gate on the left. In a couple of hundred paces go left over two stiles to cross the railway into a field.

Descend the field then join the cliff path over a stile and turn left. Take care on these high, unguarded cliffs and keep strictly to the path. Behind you there is a grand view past the old harbour of Skinningrove to the highest cliffs in the country at Boulby.

Continue along the path past the many metal sculptures along the way and enjoy the view from these high cliffs. You pass a couple of information boards as you go, one describing the Guibal Fan House, the other the Roman signal station and well.

Continue along the now-descending path with grand views across Saltburn with its fine pier to industrial Teesside in the distance.

If you would like to visit the Smuggling Experience at the Ship Inn, it is well worth a look while you are passing. It is only small, but it is full of interest.


The facts

Distance: 5 miles (8km.

Time: 2 hours Grading: Moderate, dangerous cliffs.

Start: Saltburn car park, grid ref 668214.

Best map: OS Landranger 94.

Parking: First car park on entering Saltburn from the south.

Refreshments: Pubs and cafés in Saltburn, try the smugglers haunt, the Ship Inn.

Public toilets: In the car park at the start.