VICTORIA ELLIS steps out on behalf of an indisposed George Wilkinson to lead a ‘nice winter walk’ round Whitby (‘That’s not a country walk,’ grumbles George).

WHITBY. That’s where I told George Wilkinson I was going. George usually writes this walk but was indisposed. He peered at my route on the map and said, “That’s not a country walk”. I pointed to a zone devoid of houses and anyway he was too weak to argue. He gave me his camera, set it to auto, said “kippers” and headed back to his sick bed.

Hours later I returned and said, rather defensively, that it was a “nice winter walk”. But unfortunately he refused to write up my adventures for you. Perhaps his condition had not been improved by a supper of kipper, toast and half a bar of chocolate (left over from the walk) garnished with antibiotics.

Anyway, here’s the walk. I left town on a path between the car park and the jetties, by lots of boats moored on the River Esk and by mud, as the tide low and getting lower. My timing could have been better. The river is home to all sorts of wildlife from seals to kingfishers. My sightings were limited to a cormorant or shag on a buoy and, of course, gulls.

From the boatyard there is a choice, a path right above the river or a good cinder path signposted to Ruswarp. Locals heading for this path, carrying their shopping or walking the dog, told me it now provides a good surface nearly all the way to Ruswarp, a permissive path courtesy of Network Rail.

I took the riverside path and soon realised why I was on my own; it was a bit muddy in places.

After a few hundred yards my route joined the cinder path anyway and I tracked beside the railway, by river, buildings and yards, then open fields, to Ruswarp.

Seats in the handy wooden shelter outside the old ticket office at Ruswarp Station provided a sheltered place for lunch.

From Ruswarp the path is mostly surfaced with fine large flagstones. Again this route provided good enough surfaces for locals of all ages on their constitutionals, passing through fields, around marshy land, through woods and a small cutting, its sides brightened by vivid ferns.

Most impressive was the Larpool Viaduct, doubly part of the route in that we go under and over it. Last time I walked around here it was most definitely closed, firmly gated and wired shut. Now it is part the Scarborough to Whitby Rail Trail cycle track.

The tide was low so this was not best for photographs of the river from the viaduct. If you’re after better timing, Google for the tide timetable or phone the tourist centre before setting off.

Also impressive and gaunt is the abbey. I have kinked the route uphill and around it as the views are best this way.

Here it was busy with visitors and open tourist buses, and down on the beach, toddlers were enjoying the sand.


Directions

When in doubt look at the map. Check your position at each point. Keep straight on unless otherwise directed (fp=fingerpost).

1. From swing bridge, left to road, left at roundabout, left to road (car parks), left at building on Endeavour Wharf (fp/info board). At boatyard, path by river, joins cinder path by railway.

2. Right to road (pavement), uphill, flagged path (fp) on right between wall and house, two snickelgates, steps uphill in wood.

3. Before metal snickelgate out of wood, path on right (three-way fp) by wood edge, pass allotments, fence gap, steps down and up cutting, path 50 yards, snickelgate (waymark). Right (four-way fp) to cindertrack and over viaduct. Track on left, right at signpost, 50 yards.

4. Left to road (no/not much verge) until edge of town.

5. Straight across A171 (use nearby traffic lights), downhill on Larpool Lane. Right uphill at crossroads on Green Lane, first left (Chandlers House on left /dead-end sign). Pass The Ropery.

6. At benches/planted terrace on left, down steps and right to path (fp). At three-way finger-post, right uphill (signed car park/toilets). Left to road (pavement). Pass abbey. At the Donkey Field (info board), 199 steps down from churchyard or cobbled road/steps. Through town and right to swing bridge.


Fact file

Distance: Five miles.

General location: Seaside.

Car parking: Long-stay car park on Endeavour Wharf.

Right of way: Public and permissive.

Date walked: November 2013.

Refreshments: Whitby and near abbey.

Tourist information: Whitby TIC 01723 383636.

Map: OS Explorer OL27 North York Moors eastern area.

Terrain: Riverside, hills.

Difficulty: Moderate.

Please observe the Country Code and park sensibly. While every effort is made to provide accurate information, walkers set out at their own risk.