FIFTY eight million years ago the world was in turmoil with volcanic eruptions and lava flow forming features on our planet.

About 350 miles away from the Yorkshire coast, a massive release of melted rocks at the Isle of Mull flowed south east.

It was joined by a massive uplift of magma from the rocks below as the earth’s crust split, spilling the hot, burning melt onto the land. As it cooled, it formed features on the landscape we can identify today.

Known locally as the Cleveland Dyke, it created the Langbaurgh ridge near Great Ayton. A narrow intrusion spread across the North York Moors and is most visible between Goathland and Grosmont where we can see it today at the Beckhole road junction.

It is known locally as Whinstone Ridge – whinstone was the name given to the rocks by the miners and quarrymen.

It is a hard rock and was used for road building and cobblestones. It was so special that Leeds City Council quarried around Great Ayton and a thriving industry ensued, mining, crushing and transporting the stone.

The ridge across our moors was also extensively quarried, leaving a hollow along it in which we can walk sheltering from the fierce, cold winds with just a few sheep who think we are intruding on their patch.

So let us set off and walk where it would have been rather warm under our feet 58 million of years ago.


Your route

Leave the parking area and cross the road to walk along the small road opposite signed to Green End and Beckhole.

In a few paces, bear right onto the moor to walk downhill along Whinstone Ridge, or should I say the Whinstone hollow, as we walk down into the mined area.

Enjoy grand views all the way on this walk as you progress along the cutting through the ridge.

Further along, the path becomes deeper where more serious mining operations have taken place. Fortunately there is a path which skirts around the top.

Eventually the path is blocked by a gully. Cross the gully to the right or left, then continue along straight ahead until you reach a wide farm road. Go right here to soon pass through a large gate.

Continue along the road, bearing left at the yellow waymark to walk past a farm, then through a gate into a field at another yellow waymark.

Keep straight ahead on a narrow path to descend. It’s quite slippery and steep at times.

Eventually you reach a small gate. Pass through it, cross the stream on the large stepping stones, then start a serious, long ascent.

Keep to the left here following the wall passing an old shepherd’s stone hut along the way. As you climb you pass a waymarked signpost. Keep straight ahead and eventually you near the top.

Cross a wooden footbridge to join a wide earth road and turn left. Follow this road all the way to the Grosmont road. Go straight across here to join the road to a quarry at the bridleway sign.

At the quarry entrance bear left, then right onto a wide grassy path which soon meets up again with the farm road at the exit to the quarry. Continue along this wide road for about 50 paces or more, then go right onto the moor.

This path is undefined so you have to pick your way the best you can through heather and bog, keeping to the left of the hill in front of you.

After an arduous trek, you reach a fence at the main road. In this fence is a large gate which should be somewhere near you.

Exit through the gate and cross the road. Go right for a few paces, then turn left through a gate and turn almost immediately right through the gate onto a rough, boggy path.

Don’t worry it isn’t far to a farm road where you turn left and then when you reach the electricity pylons, go right onto a wide, stony road.

Continue along this stony road as it climbs across the moor for about a mile where the road splits. Keep left here and keep going for another mile as the road dips to a stream crossing, then climbs again to eventually, at the top of the hill meets another rough road at a T-junction.

Go right now and walk to a gate at the main road, cross with care here, then continue along through another gate to soon return to the parking area.


The facts

Distance – 6½ miles/10½ km

Time – 3 hours

Grading – Rough and undefined in places

Start/grid ref – Beckhole junction, grid ref: 852028

Best map – OS Outdoor Leisure 27

Parking – Roadside parking area opposite Beckhole junction

Refreshments – None

Public toilets – None