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THE Howardian Hills rise from a valley sandwiched between the North York Moors and the Yorkshire Wolds.
As hills they are not spectacular like the Cleveland Hills or the Hambleton Hills. They are rounded ridges and hills rising from a valley floor. The area comprises of villages of beauty and character, flowing fields and patches of woodland. Lonely farmsteads scatter across the valley and great rivers pass through or nearby this area of outstanding beauty.
The River Rye flows along its northern edge and the magnificent River Derwent flows through the dramatic Kirkham Gorge in the south, its steep wooded sides having many ancient deciduous trees.
The area was home to Bronze Age man and the Romans who left us a road from Malton to Aldbrough.
In Hovingham are the remains of a Roman Villa with hypocaust, bath, coins, pavements and pottery. In 1745, some very interesting Roman remains were uncovered adjacent to the Hall. A bath measuring about 12 feet square with a roof of polished tiles, tessellated pavements, fragments of pottery and coins were found.
Gilling East is another gem which is situated on the edge of the Howardian Hills. Once owned by Barch the Saxon, it passed through many hands, including one called Baldric, no, not the snivelling Blackadder one, but a mercenary called Hugh Fitz-Baldric from Germany.
The Church of the Holy Cross, previously being referred to as St Helena's or St Mary's. Not only is the architecture interesting both inside and out, but inside the church is the 14th century tomb of an unknown knight.
There are several clues as to his identity but as far as I know he still remains 'unknown'.
Another interesting feature is the clock which was made available by the work of Prince Ranjitsinhji, a cricketer who organised cricket matches with county players at Gilling to raise money for the clock and the tower.
There are many other gems in and around the Howardian Hills such as Cawton with the aptly named Cockpit Farm which is on the route, so without delay, let's mount up and enjoy the ride.
The facts
Distance: 16 miles/26km.
Terrain: Easy, but with several loose surfaced steep downhill bends.
Best map: OS Explorer 300.
Start/Grid ref: Hovingham, grid ref 667756.
Refreshments: Fairfax Arms at Gilling East, two pubs and cafes in Hovingham
Guide book: Exploring Ryedale, Moor & Wold by Bicycle by J Brian Beadle published by Trailblazer at £1.95 contains similar routes. Available from book shops, Pickering Railway Station, Dalby Forest Visitor Centre and tourist information centres.
Your route
Leave Hovingham towards Helmsley on the B1257. When you reach the village of Stonegrave, turn left signed to Cawton and Gilling.
The road is narrow but flat and winds its way past the farms of Cawton to eventually arrive at a T-junction at the village of Gilling East.
Turn left and just past the Fairfax Arms you will see the Church of the Holy Cross which you might like to explore.
Continue past the church to leave the village and climb a little. Ignore the first left but take the second at Grimston, the Sunset Holiday Cottages mark the junction.
The road climbs a little to a T-junction, bear right here signed to Brandsby, Yearsley and Easingwold, then in about a quarter of a mile go left signed to Brandsby, Easingwold and York. Climbing a little at times go right at the crossroads signed to Dalby and Terrington.
Shortly, follow the road around to the left and soon enjoy the views before having to negotiate a very steep descent with devilish bends with a gritty surface - beware.
Having descended you start a long climb now to a main road, go left here signed to Hovingham and Helmsley.
In about a mile, leave the main road, turning left signed to Scackleton and Coulton. Pass through the village of Scackleton, then descend on a very narrow road keeping straight ahead at all times.
This is another very steep descent with tight corners, take care, before climbing and soon you reach the village of Coulton.
At the crossroads, turn right signed to Hovingham, the undulating road twists and turns and eventually you have a grand view of Hovingham Hall as you approach the village and the end of the ride.
Updated: 11:59 Wednesday, March 22, 2006
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