Archive - Thursday, 13 January 2005


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New farm shop is gourmet's happy hunting-ground

FOLLOWING the fun, frolics and, more to the point, financial burden of last month you're probably looking for inexpensive wine to keep you going.

Morrisons have January promotions designed to help but first I want to mention a wine which has been on offer over Christmas, but reverted to its normal price at the beginning of the month - and that's still only a mere £3.99.

Antonio Barbadillo has long been recognised as a superb Sherry producer based at Sanlcar in Andalusia.

Now, thanks to state-of-the-art technology, this bodega is making a very dry, crisp but unfortified white from the Palomino Fino grape. Great as an apritif, Castillo de San Diego is versatile enough to accompany tapas and fishy dishes.

January promotions run from now until the end of the month and include some quite distinctive wines with a taste to leave you wanting more of the same.

Amongst the whites the French 2003 Falcon Ridge Chardonnay, a Vin de Pays d'Oc, (on promo at £2.99) has a clean, unoaked feel with lots of unexpected character for this humble price point. It's a lovely mouthful of tropical fruit flavours with a long lasting finish.

Much the same can be said of a 2003 Distinto Catarratto/ Chardonnay from Sicily (on offer this month for £3.49). The Catarratto grape is exclusive to the island and plays a part in the production of Marsala but, blended with the ubiquitous Chardonnay, a new and vibrant taste emerges. It's red stable mate, 2002 Distinto Sangiovese/ Merlot (promo price £3.49) is equally innovative with plum and cherry flavours on the palate.

Another pair from Chile (both at £2.99 until January 31) are also worth considering as they come from one of that country's leading producers, namely Santa Carolina. The Sauvignon Blanc is fresh and floral with tropical fruit as well as gooseberry and citrus notes whilst the Cabernet Sauvignon evinces the ripe, blackcurrant fruit you associate with this grape.

There's a Spanish wine, 2002 Poema Old Vine Garnacha (down from £4.99 to £4.49). Don't miss this one. The ancient vines yield a complex glassful of opaque red with hints of cherry and subtle smokey flavours which are a delight. Altogether, this is a wine for any occasion when a red is required.

A branch of Aldi opened in Scarborough just before Christmas and it was the intention to review some of their wines in this column but, due to the holidays, samples haven't yet arrived.

Hopefully they will come in time to be included next month. However, there is another new outlet in the heart of Ryedale although in a somewhat different league.

The Stable Courtyard at Castle Howard has been converted into a restaurant and shops, the most recent addition being the Farm Shop which also sells wine. This is managed by the enthusiastic, knowledgeable Andrew Bridgford.

Andrew used to run Middlethorpe Hall (on the outskirts of York) and it was here that he developed his love of fine wine.

Prices range from £5.50 to £56.99 with many interesting examples under £10. 2003 Vin de Pays de L'Herault, Blanc (£5.99) is made by Joseph Roche - a highly respected Cte de Nuits winery from their vineyard in the south of France.

It has a fresh, dry, fruit-driven style and is perfect for every-day drinking.

A 2002 Malbec Pedro del Castillo (£7.50) is rich and full bodied with chocolate, prune and dark berry aromas whilst 2003 Fonty's Pool Sauvignon Blanc/Smillon has a stunning, zingy style with delicious green fruit flavours.

This comes from Western Australia and is a joint venture with Cape Mentelle who are also responsible for the famous Cloudy Bay.

Independent wine retailers can't match supermarket prices but tend to concentrate instead on selling outstanding wines from individual producers too small to supply the big chains.

So, if you fancy supporting local enterprise, pay a visit. You'll find interesting wines with food to match in this veritable gourmet's happy hunting-ground.

Updated: 14:38 Thursday, January 13, 2005




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